Jewelry Arts Inc

Where did this idea come from — that practicing is “wasting metal”?
You cannot get better without working in metal — and you deserve to!
Metal isn’t lost when you practice. It’s reused, refined, and worked again. The material you’re using today may have already been jewelry thousands of times before. You’re part of that continuous line of metalsmiths — don’t hold yourself back from it.
You can practice most techniques in copper, brass, or silver and build the same skills even if you eventually want to work in gold.
Nobody starts out doing everything perfectly.
You only get better by doing the work.🔥

My favorite Miter block technique https://www.jewelryartstools.com/product-page/miter-block for cutting identical chain links of half round, square, or oval wire, accurately and fast.
I will show you how to use a miter block with a stop to cut multiple pieces to exactly the same length — and how to replace the small parts that are often missing.
You’ll see how to:
• Set a fixed stop for repeatable, identical cuts
• Replace the L-shaped stop using 14 gauge wire
• Use a 5/64 hex key to secure the setup
• Cut clean, straight ends with minimal cleanup
This method allows you to cut piece after piece to the same size with consistent results.
If you want my favorite Miter Block, go to the link in my bio for my Jewelry Arts Tools site 🔥

How to fix fine silver chain that turns black, brown, gray, or yellow — what’s actually happening and how to remove it.

Fine silver isn’t supposed to oxidize because it doesn't contain any copper… so why does it sometimes turn dark?

In this video, I will explain what’s really happening when fine silver discolors and shows exactly how to fix it.

You’ll see:
• Why fine silver can appear to oxidize in real studio conditions
• Why pickle does not remove this type of discoloration
• How to use heat to burn off sulfur buildup, and restore the metal

Safe Soldering Tiny Jump Rings in Tight Quarters-
In this video, I’m showing you exactly how to solder tiny jump rings in very close proximity — cleanly, safely, and without melting the pieces you want to keep intact. This is one of the most common questions I get, and the method really does make all the difference. This process works exactly the same in silver as in gold.

You’ll see how we:
• Position the flame so only the seam gets the heat it needs
• Use paste flux and a tiny square of solder for maximum control
• Keep the tweezers braced and ready so nothing drifts out of place
• Handle extremely small parts without disturbing nearby joins
• Work with a 00 tip for tight quarters and precise heat placement
• React quickly when solder shifts — because that’s normal
• Finish the seam cleanly with pickle and a touch of green paper

The whole process takes seconds once the setup is right — and setup is everything.